Gossiping 70-year-olds, rose bushes saving vineyards, a cherry thief with zero shame, and storks launching from ancient rooftops. Villafranca del Bierzo – unexpectedly magical.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~24 km
- Time: ~6 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
- Terrain: Mostly flat and pleasant paths through residential areas, fields, and rolling vineyards.
A Late Start and Spring Flowers
After giving my body a proper rest and having some domestic fun at a nearby laundry, I was finally ready to hit the trail. I left Ponferrada around 10:00 AM, deliberately stepping out after the main morning crowds had already cleared. However, the Camino was still quite busy because the pilgrims who had stayed the night in Molinaseca were now starting to catch up and join the main path.
On my way out, right next to the historic Iglesia de Santa María de Compostela, I stopped at the incredibly modern Cafe Bar Camino de Santiago for a hearty breakfast and a fresh stamp in my credential. After taking a few minutes to properly adjust and fix the straps of my backpack, I felt completely refreshed and ready for another beautiful day of adventure.
The trail guided us through gorgeous, peaceful residential areas that were absolutely covered in vibrant spring flowers. Peonies, roses-you name it, it was blooming! For a good while, I found myself walking a few paces behind two lovely ladies who looked to be well into their 70s. Watching them laughing, gossiping about the men (that’s how I felt a vibe) and navigating though the trail together was so heartwarming. I looked at them and secretly hoped that by the time I reach that age, I will be able to share the exact same beautiful adventure with my own bestie!
Peace, Quiet, and Vineyard Secrets
When you are passing through the village of Fuentesnuevas, please make sure not to miss the beautiful historic Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción). I sat on a bench outside for a while, completely losing myself in the pure peace and absolute silence of the morning. The combination of stone, gold and wood inside the church will take your breath away.
By lunchtime, I reached the wine-centric town of Cacabelos and stopped for a fantastic meal at the authentic Pulperia Compostela. There is nothing quite like fueling up with some incredible traditional octopus right on the doorstep of Galicia! Fully satisfied, I carried on toward Villafranca del Bierzo.
As you approach Villafranca, the landscape shifts dramatically, greeting you with endless, stunning vineyards rolling out all the way toward the horizon. I learned a very interesting agricultural fact along the way: local farmers always plant a bush of roses right at the head of the grapevine rows. Roses are highly susceptible to the exact same diseases and pests-like aphids or mildew-as the grapes, but they show the symptoms much faster. If a threat is coming, the rose bush is the first to suffer, acting as an early warning system for the winemakers to save their crop. Brilliant, isn’t it?
Here I was once again unpleasantly surprised by another pilgrim – the lady with kids was actively collecting harvest of cherries on some private property by the fence. While I stopped to have a sip of water I was kindly invited to join them in this cherry-fest we were not invited for, and on my logical question if we were invited/allowed to that the answer was – but it’s plenty! I spotted her again later next to some agricultural fields and found myself genuinely curious why she wasn’t helping herself to the cabbage as well.
An Impeccable Stay and Fairytale Storks
I rolled into Villafranca del Bierzo right around 16:00 and checked into a place that I absolutely, highly recommend. The rooms, the panoramic terrace, and the hospitality were nothing short of impeccable!
After a short chill session to let my feet rest, I went out for a lazy evening walk around the town. Villafranca is an absolute gem. There is a tiny, beautiful river beach-perfect for sitting on the grass, sunbathing, or going for a refreshing swim-as well as a beautifully designed green park nearby.
While wandering around, I was lucky enough to catch several magnificent white storks launching from the ancient church rooftops and flying gracefully through the valley. They were breathtaking to watch!
Next stop: O Cebreiro – and Galicia was finally within reach.
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