Rest day well spent: Energy Museum with private guide, Templar Castle, and a secret stone cellar for late night tapas.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: 0 km (Official rest day, just plenty of casual urban wandering)
- Atmosphere: Relaxed, cultural, and deeply historic.
After yesterday’s 34 kilometers and a divorce letter from my legs, I will not even try to apologize for a well-deserved rest day in Ponferrada.
Regional Plans for Next Time
There is honestly a staggering amount of things to see in this beautiful region. I originally wanted to explore the stunning red peaks of Las Medulas– the ancient Roman gold mines nearby- and the mystical Valle del Silencio (The Valley of Silence). However, without a car, getting to these remote mountain spots proved to be incredibly difficult (at Tourist Information office they looked at me with big sympathy and compassion), so I wisely decided to leave those plans for my next visit.
An Unexpected Guide in the Energy Museum
After heading back to the albergue for a quick, comforting snack (hello jamon, did you miss me?), I decided it was time to visit the Museo de la Energia (The Energy Museum). Yes, I am a woman of many diverse interests!
Just before leaving, I met a fascinating pilgrim from China named Meredith. She had drastically changed her life (will respect her privacy so no stories will be found here) and moved to Barcelona to fiercely follow her lifelong dream. (Meredith, if you are reading my blog, thank you so much for your incredible company and your kind heart!) We instantly clicked and decided to head to the museum together.
The museum is actually located right on the Camino path following the river, so even if you are just passing through Ponferrada without staying overnight, you should seriously consider stopping by. It is housed in a brilliantly restored power plant from the early 20th century.
You should know that I definitely do not have a technical mindset at all. Funny enough, Meredith had been working in this exact engineering sphere for many years before moving to Spain! While I was honestly trying my best to comprehend how everything functioned, she was walking me through the pavilions, explaining the massive coal structures, the old machinery, and how electricity was generated here decades ago.
She made the whole experience fascinating. Plus, the walk there took us through a gorgeous green park right by the river-it was pure, unadulterated pleasure to walk without a heavy backpack weighing down my shoulders, just enjoying the simple, happy moments of life.
Channelling My Inner Rapunzel
I planned my main visit to the iconic Templar Castle (Castillo de los Templarios) for the late afternoon, right when the intense daytime heat had finally faded. You can easily buy your tickets either online in advance or right at the main entrance gate.
The epic history of this fortress arises from the 12th century, when the Knights Templar took over a former Roman citadel and heavily fortified it to protect the swelling numbers of pilgrims marching toward Santiago de Compostela from Moorish attacks.
The castle is massive and incredibly fun to explore. You can have a long, scenic walk along the top of the stone battlements, enjoying sweeping, panoramic views of the entire city below, and pop into various towers to check out several historical exhibitions. Walking those ancient walls in the soft evening light was pure magic.
A Late-Night Secret Cellar
To make the night even more perfect, late in the evening my fellow pilgrims and I gathered for a delayed dinner at a fantastic local spot right next to the fortress called La Barbacana. Surprisingly, I didn’t recover any pictures from that night (what means it went really well) – I guess we were too busy eating and laughing.
If you visit, you absolutely have to ask to be seated in their downstairs interior. Built straight into the ancient stone foundations of the historic center, it feels like a hidden medieval cellar or a secret templar meeting room- the atmosphere is unmatched! We spent the late hours treating ourselves to their famous tapas and local beer. Sharing incredible food and laughs in that candle-lit stone cave was the ultimate way to wrap up a perfectly relaxing rest day.
Next stop: Villafranca del Bierzo – and Galicia was getting closer with every step.
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