Morning coffee ritual, fairy tale forests, octopus Mecca in Melide, and a grandmother’s kitchen in Arzua. Day 30 — Two more sleeps until Santiago.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~29 km
- Time: ~7–8 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Terrain: Rolling hills, shaded forest trails, and ancient stone bridges.
The Essential Coffee Ritual
I left Palas de Rei around 11:00 AM, adhering to my philosophy that the Camino should not be a frantic race against the clock. My first priority was finding the perfect spot to truly wake up, and I found it at the “Essential Coffee Home” owned by a really kind-hearted owner. It’s a beautiful, atmospheric little place-the ideal sanctuary to sit, enjoy a slow breakfast, drink a strong, rich coffee, and collect that all-important stamp in my pilgrim passport. There is something deeply meditative about this morning ritual; it centers you before the long walk ahead, allowing you to mentally prepare for the road without any rush.
Through the Forests of A Ulloa
Today’s route was a complete change of pace, guiding me deep into the lush, emerald forests and across the weathered, ancient stone bridges of the A Ulloa region. This part of Galicia feels like stepping into a fairy tale; the path winds through dense woodlands where the light filters through the canopy in soft, shifting patterns, and the only sounds are running water and rustling leaves. It is the kind of scenery that makes you want to walk slower, just to keep the moment lasting a little bit longer. Even crowds dissolve.
Eventually, the path brought me to the town of Melide. If you are an octopus lover, this place is essentially your Mecca – Melide is legendary across all of Galicia for its traditional pulperías. However, by the time I arrived every place was packed with crowds and the vibe felt a bit too commercial for my taste. So I tightened my backpack straps and kept walking – Santiago wasn’t going to reach itself.
Arzua and the Comfort of Casa Chelo
My final destination for today was Arzua, a town that serves as the last major stop before the final push to Santiago. While Arzua is a bustling hub for pilgrims, I wanted to find something that felt authentic rather than commercial. Thanks to the kind recommendations of some locals, I found my way to Casa Chelo.
Stepping inside felt like crossing the threshold into a family home rather than a restaurant. I came early for the dinner (I never miss that chance) so the place was completely empty. For a five long minutes I was sitting there with a feeling that I invaded someone’s home.
The atmosphere immediately reminded me of visiting a grandmother’s kitchen-there was an unmistakable warmth and the kind of honest, hearty home-cooked food that heals a tired pilgrim’s soul. It was the perfect antidote to the “faceless” commercial spots that have popped up closer to the city. Aside from the excellent food, the town itself has a small, quiet church that is worth a visit if you want a moment of stillness, but otherwise, Arzua is a place focused on the essentials: good rest, good food, and the quiet gathering of strength for the final steps of the journey.
Two days to go.
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