Prehistoric caves, a flower festival, and an accidental invitation to a medieval music celebration – with a generous hint of local tapas in the evening.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~23 km (plus a little extra if you take the park route or walk in industrial zone by mistake like I did!)
- Time: ~5.5 hours
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (one initial climb out of Ages, then a long, flat entry into the city)
- Terrain: Rocky trails at first, leading into paved alternative paths and a beautiful green river park
- Elevation: A short uphill climb at the start, followed by a steady descent into the valley (+120m / -280m)
Prehistoric Roots and the Perfect Breakfast
The morning air was crisp as the Camino led us toward our first stop of the day: Atapuerca. While many pilgrims choose to spend the night here, this small town is internationally famous for a completely different reason. It is home to one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, where the oldest human fossil remains in Europe were discovered. If you are staying overnight and are interested in natural history, visiting the Archaeological Site of Atapuerca or its immersive park is an absolute must.
As for me? I was on a mission for fuel, so I skipped the prehistoric caves and headed straight to a local shop for breakfast. A warm croissant with ham and cheese paired with a hot coffee-and, of course, wonderful company-warmed up both my heart and my stomach, perfectly prepping me for the miles ahead. My final destination for the day was the great city of Burgos.
The Golden Rule of Entering Burgos: Avoid the Industrial Zone!
When it comes to walking into Burgos, you have a crucial choice to make. There are several paths available. The traditional, historical route takes you straight through a massive industrial zone. Granted, back in the 12th century when the original pilgrimage maps were established, there were no factories or asphalt plants here! But today, it’s a soul-crushing stretch of concrete.
By mistake, I actually walked a few kilometers down this industrial road. Realizing my error, I turned back to catch the alternative path. This route runs past the airport at first, but then it rewards you by leading you into Burgos through a massive, gorgeous green park along the river.
🗺️ Pilgrim Tip: Take the alternative path through the park-you absolutely won’t regret it! Just watch out for the turn; it is located right after the bridge, and it is incredibly easy to miss if you aren’t paying close attention.
A Floral Welcome and the Majestic Cathedral
Burgos greeted me in the most spectacular way possible. The city was hosting a magnificent flower festival, meaning the streets were bursting with vibrant colours, lively crowds, and a joyful energy. Rising above it all was the Burgos Cathedral-one of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful Gothic cathedrals I have ever seen on the entire Camino. Since I had planned a much-needed rest day in Burgos, I happily postponed the pleasure of exploring its grand interior until the next day.
I checked into my hotel, which was fantastic and came complete with a restaurant, a guest kitchen, and great amenities. And it was right there, in the hotel restaurant, that the real magic happened.
In a private dining room, a group of men was celebrating. They turned out to be members of La Tuna, and in the truest spirit of generosity, they invited me inside to share their celebration with them.
For those who don’t know (I didn’t know either and initially thought it was some fishermen gathering), it’s not this type of tuna 🐟 🐟 🐟
Tuna is a traditional Spanish university musical group dating back to the Middle Ages. Just like student unions or fraternities in the USA might promote sports or campus life, these historic Spanish groups were established centuries ago to promote local culture, poetry, and traditional music. What blew me away was that even after many decades since graduation, and despite living in entirely different corners of the world, these men still meet up every single year just to play music and celebrate life together.
Being welcomed into their private celebration was a deeply heartwarming experience. Watching them perform just for the joy of it showed me that true friendships and shared passions don’t fade with time or distance. No matter how far life takes you, there are certain bonds that always bring you back to the exact same harmonious tune.
Sitting there with them, I realized that the Camino doesn’t just show you places- it opens doors to moments you could never have planned.
In the evening we hit the streets of Burgos. The town was beautifully decorated, the atmosphere was buzzing, and delicious tapas were being served. What more could a tired pilgrim possibly wish for?
I do have a short video from that evening – but out of respect for my wonderful Tuna friends, I’ll keep it just for myself. As for photos – I was way too busy enjoying the conversations, the incredible music, and eating my weight in tapas!
With a rest day ahead, I went to sleep absolutely happy and chill knowing I don’t need get up tomorrow and pack – just enjoy this beautiful and welcoming city.
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