Mud, fog, wild horses, an 86-year-old superhero, and a forest that had very strong opinions about my route. Just another day on the Camino.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~17 km
- Time: ~5-6 hours (depending on weather and mud!)
- Difficulty: Very Hard (High altitude, steep muddy descent)
- Terrain: Mountain paths, gravel, slippery forest trails, and asphalt
- Elevation: Climb to Col de Lepoeder (+800m), then sharp drop to Roncesvalles (-600m)
The Great Orisson Standoff: Waiting Out the Storm
Morning brought more heavy clouds and a relentless, pouring rain. After sharing a cozy breakfast with my new friends, I watched them brave the storm and leave. I checked out at 9:00 AM, took about ten steps into the downpour, and instantly realized that in this kind of weather, I wouldn’t get very far. I turned right back around and retreated to Orisson’s cafe to wait and see if the weather gods would have mercy on me.
Meanwhile, fresh (and soaking wet) pilgrims started pouring in from SJPDP. Around noon, the rain finally stopped, and wrapped in a deep, cinematic fog, I officially started my walk to Roncesvalles.
There was something truly magical about walking through that mist. It moved so fast, constantly uncovering dramatic pieces of the Pyrenees, herds of wild horses, and fellow wet pilgrims who looked like they were about to die while conquering yet another brutal uphill. On the road that day, I was profoundly grateful that I had packed extra layers. The mountain air was incredibly crisp, but honestly, putting on clothes in the middle of a thick cloud is an experience of its own! By the side of the road, I even spotted patches of actual hail.
⛰️ Camino Magic along the Way:
- The Virgin of Biakorri: Keep an eye out through the mist for this flower-crowned statue of the Virgin Mary, protecting shepherds and pilgrims.
- The Roland Fountain (Fontaine de Roland): Located right before you leave France and cross the border into Spain. This historic spot is named after the legendary Frankish knight Roland. It’s the perfect place to replenish your drinking water supplies and have a short break for snacks and chitchat.
An 86-Year-Old Rock Star and the Border Crossing
At the Roland Fountain, I met an absolutely amazing Canadian lady. She was 86 years old-and hiking the Camino completely by herself! We had a brief but wonderful chat about life, politics (how can you avoid it when the world is going crazy?), and our freshly started Camino adventure. People like her, who maintain such a magnificent shape of both body and mind in their old age, never cease to amaze and inspire me! I walked away hoping that one day, I will be that exact kind of inspiring lady for future generations.
Step by step, I finally reached the pivotal turn where you leave the asphalt road and go completely off-road toward the Lepoeder pass. It felt like a fantasy novel: a misty, eerie forest on the right and jagged rocks on the left. The surface was incredibly slippery after the rain, and my muscles were sending me their warmest regards after yesterday’s climb. But mountain weather is unpredictable-I swear, just 15 minutes later, the fog vanished and the scenery looked completely different!
The Forest of Doom: A Masterclass in Survival
Eventually, you will reach a major crossroads where you have to choose how to enter Roncesvalles: through the steep forest trail or along the safety of the asphalt road.
Let me warn you: watch out, because this crossroad completely tricked me! Back at the Pilgrim’s Office in SJPDP, the volunteers persistently advised us to take the road option if it rained, and as a highly responsible pilgrim, that was exactly my plan!
But the Camino had other ideas. Somehow, I missed the sign and found myself on a crazy, muddy, near-vertical descent through the forest. It had been raining for two days straight-imagine the apocalyptic level of mud! With only a few other lost pilgrims on the trail, I quickly realized this was not the easy road. What can I say? Once again, I thanked the heavens for my trekking poles and my stubborn positive attitude. My phone stayed firmly in my pocket – my brain had one job: survival.
🗺️ Crucial Route Choice: When you reach the summit, you will see a wooden sign split into two. Left takes you down the forest (beautiful but notoriously steep and dangerous in the mud). Right takes you via the road/Ibaneta pass. If it has been raining, take the road! Your knees will thank you.
Roncesvalles: Mud, Men, and Moving Ceremonies
I finally limped into Roncesvalles with happy tears in my eyes, my trekking poles squeezed tight in my hands, and mud literally reaching my knees.
The town welcomed me with absolute peace and quiet, mostly because all the other pilgrims were already hibernating in their bunk beds. I got my official stamps at the modern Albergue de Roncesvalles, and I was so incredibly proud of myself for surviving the Pyrenees that I went ahead and bought another Credencial. It just looked so beautiful that I couldn’t resist buying it as a souvenir-saving it completely fresh for my next Camino adventure!
🏰 What not to miss in Roncesvalles: Take a moment to visit the Colegiata de Santa María, a stunning 13th-century Gothic church that feels like a sanctuary of peace after a brutal day of walking.
The evening was perfect. It started with a hearty communal dinner where I found myself sitting at an all-men’s table, leading to a hilarious and fascinating discussion about the pros and cons of living in different parts of the world, and, naturally, women.
Afterward, we all headed to the ancient church for the Pilgrim’s Blessing. It was incredibly touching when, during the opening of the ceremony, they announced all the original countries the pilgrims had travelled from. Hearing the global community gathered in one room gave me chills.
Once the blessing was over, the guys went out for a few more celebratory Spanish beers. As for me? I happily went straight to my bed to throw my legs up against the wall and let my poor muscles recover.
Next stop: walking into the green valleys of Navarra!
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