Day 2: Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port – Orisson

Fog, Drama, and Why My Knees Chose Life

📊 Stage Quick Facts:

• Distance: 8 km (FIRST part of the full Pyrenees crossing)
• Time: ~3-4 hours
• Difficulty: Hard (Continuous steep uphill)
• Terrain: Asphalt road and mountain paths
• Elevation Gain: +600 meters

My very first day on the Camino greeted me with thick fog and eerily empty streets. Now, let’s establish one rule: I do not function well without breakfast. So, instead of rushing, I let the eager crowds march ahead, enjoyed my morning coffee in blissful solitude (spotting only a few other late birds), and finally set off around 9:30 AM. Thankfully, the wind took the fog with it.

Naturally, I had to stop at the bridge for a photo-how could I not? Looking out at the view, soaking in the crisp air, a sudden wave of “Oh my god, I’m actually doing this” hit me, and it truly touched my heart.

As you might know, there are two paths from here: the legendary Napoleon Route through Orisson (the ultimate uphill challenge) and the Valcarlos Route (the softer valley alternative). I guess you have zero doubts about which route my beloved knees and I chose? Team Napoleon all the way!

The Logistics (And the Art of Getting a Bed in Orisson)

If you open the Buen Camino app (which has an incredible Route Profile feature), you’ll see that you have to climb a whopping 1,200 meters from SJPDP to Col de Lepoeder, before dropping back down to Roncesvalles. Shockingly, many pilgrims tackle this entire roller coaster in a single day.

For me? Absolutely not. Stopping midway at Orisson or Borda was a non-negotiable. I like to think of myself as super active, but let’s be real-I’m not an Olympic athlete. Plus, I wanted to savor the Pyrenees, spend a night tucked into the mountains, and walk into Roncesvalles the next day without needing a knee replacement.

💡 Pro-Tip on Booking: When I first checked, both Orisson and Borda were completely booked out. But I became a woman possessed. Every single morning, I’d wake up and refresh https://www.refuge-orisson.com/en. And guess what? One day, a few cancellations popped up for my exact date! My hands were literally shaking as I reached for my credit card.

Lesson learned: If it says full, keep checking! Alternatively, you can always catch an evening bus back to SJPDP and take it back up the next morning to resume your walk.

Walking into the Clouds (And Dying Respiratory Systems)

But back to the trail! It was pure magic. Spring flowers were blooming, fluffy sheep were peacefully grazing on the hills, and smiling locals kept wishing us Buen Camino.

Meanwhile, my respiratory system was quietly dying on the inclines, but the snacks I packed from SJPDP kept me alive.

⚠️ Crucial Note: There are zero shops and no water fountains on this stretch until you reach Orisson. Make sure to pack plenty of snacks and carry at least 1.5 to 2 liters of water right from the start! I heard a story of a pilgrim who was so terrified of starving during this stage that he packed an entire grilled chicken in his backpack and heroically carried it up 600 meters of mountain! Pack snacks, dear pilgrim. Not livestock.

In Hunto, I found a lovely little donativo spot with coffee and snacks, where I instantly bonded with a few other pilgrims. My only regret? Not buying one of those beautifully hand-painted stones made by the local kids. I was already carrying a heavy stone all the way from Cyprus for a special Camino tradition (you can read all about that emotional ritual [here]) and adding a second stone to my back in the beginning of the way felt like something my knees would never forgive me for.

By 1:00 PM, the clouds rolled in. The trail emptied out, as almost everyone left behind had a guaranteed bed waiting for them in Orisson. In the photo below, you can see me striking a confident pose, completely oblivious to the fact that it was about to absolutely pour on me. Spoiler: it poured. Magnificently. Biblical proportions. One thing about Pyrenean weather: it changes faster than you can zip up your rain jacket

Orisson: Tears, Cheers, and… Foot Massages?

When I finally dragged myself into Orisson, the view from the window was to die for.

The vibe was unmatched. The albergue was buzzing with the pure joy of people who had survived their very first day of walking on the Camino. Everyone was sharing stories, trading tips, and comparing blisters. I ended up chatting with people from Taiwan, the US, and Canada. In an act of pure Camino kindness, a sweet pilgrim from Taiwan lent me their foot massage ball. Oh. My. God.

🌟 The Highlight: The Communal Dinner

The absolute highlight of the day was the dinner at Orisson’s restaurant. And not just the food itself (which was delicious), but what happened after the plates were cleared.

One by one, everyone stood up, introduced themselves, and shared why they were walking the Camino. It was incredibly moving. Sitting at that table, the world shrank. One person was celebrating life after beating cancer. Others were walking to process the heartbreaking loss of a child or partner. Some were looking for a grueling physical challenge, while many had completely burned out of their high-stress corporate jobs and were walking to find answers for their future. And then, there were two guys (cheers if you’re reading this!) who candidly admitted they just came to taste every local beer along the trail.

That dinner will stay in my heart forever. And right there, at my table, I met an amazing American couple who became lifelong friends.

Next stop: the summit, the descent, and Roncesvalles – if my knees agree…