Nokia phone, paper maps, a wish tree with a Ukrainian ribbon, and the best Menu del Día of my life – oh, and a foot massage place closed on Mondays. The Camino contains multitudes.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~20 km
- Time: ~6 hours (with a slow morning and a long lunch)
- Difficulty: Moderate (Rolling hills with some steep, short ups and downs before levelling out)
- Terrain: Rocky tracks, pine forest paths, and a paved approach into the big city
- Elevation: Constant small ups and downs (+280m / -300m)
A 91-Year-Old Legend and a “Modern” Ancient Church
If you are still bearing with me after yesterday’s longread, let me officially inform you that it’s a beautiful morning – and not because of the weather: I managed to get back on my feet. Let’s walk the walk.
Torres del Río is a tiny, quiet town, but it hides a real architectural gem. Before leaving, you can visit the unique Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro (Church of the Holy Sepulchre), which opens at 10:00 AM for a small entry fee. Even though it was built way back in the 12th century, it looks surprisingly modern-almost futuristic-with its rare octagonal shape and towering vaulted ceiling.
Right outside this church, I met the absolute oldest pilgrim of my entire journey: a 91-year-old gentleman from the UK. He was traveling with an old-school Nokia phone-you know, the legendary type that could probably break a floor tile if you dropped it-along with huge paper maps (because let’s be honest, there is zero romance in digitalization) and a simple wooden walking stick. We had a wonderfully friendly chat, and his incredible spirit left me smiling long after we parted ways.
Seeing him made me realize something beautiful: we often overcomplicate our lives with endless gadgets, apps, and overthinking, trying to control every single step ahead. But here was this man, at 91, simply trusting a piece of paper, his sturdy stick, and the yellow arrows. It was a gentle reminder that:
sometimes, all you really need to move forward is a simple direction and a brave heart.
Shortly after 10:00 AM, I finally started my actual walking day towards Logrono. By this time, the trail was getting a bit busier because the big wave of pilgrims who had stayed the night in Los Arcos started to overtake me.
Wish Trees and the Beautiful Streets of Viana
After winding through open fields, the route takes you into a light, peaceful pine forest. In the middle of it, there is a famous “wish tree” covered in various ribbons, notes, and country flags left by travellers from all over the world. My heart completely broke to see a Ukrainian ribbon tied there among them-a quiet, heavy reminder of the real world standing out against the peaceful forest backdrop.
It’s moments like this that completely change your perspective on the trail.
The Camino isn’t a bubble or an escape from reality. Instead, it’s a place where the whole world meets, carrying its deepest pains, hopes, and prayers on its shoulders.
That flag on a quiet Spanish tree made me stop and send out a silent wish for peace, carrying that warmth with me as I walked on.
Moving along, the Camino transitions back into green fields and vineyards before leading you into the historic city of Viana. Please make a proper stop here! The old town is beautiful, and you shouldn’t miss the grand Iglesia de Santa María right in the center.
By the time I finished looking around, it was around 14:00- and who am I to ever miss a good lunch?
🍽️ Foodie Recommendation: Cross the main square, Plaza de los Fueros, with its restaurants and head towards exit of the town to Palacio de Pujadas, they serve fantastic Menu del Dia. Hungry yet? Head over to my Gastronomical Guide to the Regions for all the foodie evidence!
My original post-lunch plan was to treat my tired feet to a professional foot massage at one of the local pilgrim care spots in town, but as my usual luck would have it, they are completely closed on Mondays!
With my feet un-massaged but my stomach very happy, I pushed through the final kilometers, crossing the stone bridge that officially takes you out of Navarra and into the famous wine capital of La Rioja.
I arrived in Logrono around 17:00, dropped my backpack, and headed straight to its famous Co-cathedral of Santa Maria de la Redonda. Built between the 16th and 18th centuries, the grand structure practically breathes history. I sat quietly inside — which, given my energy levels, was less about spirituality and more about the fact that my legs refused to move. The pilgrims were incredibly easy to spot – instantly distinguished by the sports sandals they all wore to give their feet a break after another long day on the Camino.
Afterward, I caught a bit of the local graffiti art and soaked in the lively evening vibes of the city before finally falling into bed. Tomorrow: 30 kilometers ahead. Buenas noches, Logrono.
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