Sunshine, happy lizards, a magical church bell, and the shocking realization that traffic lights still exist. Day 5 delivered everything.
📊 Stage Quick Facts:
- Distance: ~20.5 km
- Time: ~6 hours (with heavy emphasis on sun-chilling and tortilla breaks)
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate (Gentle river valleys, a few short hills, and a flat approach to the city)
- Terrain: Forest paths, gravel tracks, river banks, and paved city pavements
- Elevation Gain/Loss: Very mild rolling hills (+200m / -300m)
The Day of Sun-Chilling and “Happy Lizards”
Today, the Camino finally greeted me with glorious, radiant sunshine! I crossed the famous Puente de la Rabia back out of Zubiri to rejoin the trail for another beautiful day of exploration, connection, and pure enjoyment.
Sticking to my signature schedule, I set off around 9:30 AM. Letting the main morning crowds rush ahead allowed me to have the trail mostly to myself. The path today led us deeper into the heart of the stunning Navarra region.
Near the village of Larrasoana, I took a quick detour off the main trail, crossing the bridge into town just to grab a coffee and soak up the sun. After days of endless fog and heavy rain, sitting in the sunshine felt like a luxury.
☕ Don’t Miss This Spot: Larrasoana is quite small, but next to the church on the main square, you’ll find a couple of lovely, peaceful cafeterias. It’s the perfect spot to stop, breathe, and enjoy the warmth.
After Larrasoana, the Camino snakes beautifully along the Arga River, passing several scenic river rapids before slowly bringing you into the village of Zuriain.
Right there, at the lovely riverside café called La Parada de Zuriain, I spotted some of my Camino friends. They were all stretched out in the sun, looking like a bunch of blissfully happy lizards. Naturally, I couldn’t help myself and immediately joined the lounge party. Foodie alert: They serve one of the absolute best spinach tortillas I have ever tasted on the entire trail. Seriously, don’t walk past it!
Secret Beaches and a Magical Bell in Zabaldika
Leaving Zuriain, the trail follows the road for a short bit before reaching the tiny town of Irotz. If you are doing this route in the heat of summer, there is a gorgeous local river beach here where you can stop for a quick, refreshing swim or just chill on the grassy banks.
After Irotz, you will encounter a choice of routes to get toward Zabaldika. I chose the alternative scenic path that goes up to the ancient, 13th-century Church of San Esteban in Zabaldika.
🔔 The Zabaldika Bell Experience: Inside this beautiful hilltop church, the kind nuns will invite you to climb up and actually ring the massive church bell. It was a genuinely magical, surreal experience. I never would have imagined that making such a thunderous, beautiful sound required so little physical force!
⚠️ Crucial Timing Note: If you want to experience this magic, keep in mind that the church closes for a lunch break around 14:00.
The best part about this detour? You don’t even need to hike back down to the main Camino. There is a direct path from Zabaldika straight toward Pamplona-just follow the yellow arrows from the church. A few friends I met ended up staying at the wonderful parochial albergue here, which they absolutely loved.
Re-Entering Civilization (And Shocking Traffic Lights!)
I honestly couldn’t have asked for better weather. Granted, there were a few minor uphills where the sun beat down so hard I actually found myself missing the rain clouds for a split second! But overall, the road was great, and I could feel my body finally adjusting to the daily physical challenges.
Just before entering the capital, the trail passes through the historic town of Villava.
⚙️ Look Out For: The Batan de Villava, a beautifully restored, medieval watermill right on the riverbank. It’s a gorgeous piece of history hidden right on the edge of the urban area.
And then, finally… Pamplona!
My very first feeling upon entering the city was utter shock: it felt so incredibly strange to see traffic lights and moving cars again after days in the quiet mountains! The Camino leads you right along the massive, medieval walled fortification of the city and brings you up through the historic gateway into the vibrant Old Town.
But Pamplona deserves its own story – and I have plenty to tell. So stay tuned!
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